{"id":213639,"date":"2023-02-28T11:08:53","date_gmt":"2023-02-28T11:08:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/?p=213639"},"modified":"2023-02-28T11:08:53","modified_gmt":"2023-02-28T11:08:53","slug":"romania-este-croitorul-si-cizmarul-europei-dar-nu-a-reusit-sa-isi-dezvolte-si-branduri-proprii-in-moda-asa-ca-lucreaza-doar-pentru-altii-de-ce-hainele-gentile-si-incaltarile-unor-branduri-precum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/?p=213639","title":{"rendered":"Rom\u00e2nia este croitorul \u015fi cizmarul Europei, dar nu a reu\u015fit s\u0103 \u00ee\u015fi dezvolte \u015fi branduri proprii \u00een mod\u0103, a\u015fa c\u0103 lucreaz\u0103 doar pentru al\u0163ii. De ce? Hainele, gen\u0163ile \u015fi \u00eenc\u0103l\u0163\u0103rile unor branduri precum Prada, Gucci, Max Mara, Zara \u015fi H&#038;M poart\u0103 pe etichet\u0103 \u201epecetea\u201c \u201emade in Romania\u201c"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\nRom\u00e2nia este unul dintre cei mai importan\u0163i produc\u0103tori de \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103\u00adminte din Europa, fabricile locale realiz\u00e2nd haine pentru nume mari din moda de lux \u015fi cea mass market.<\/p>\n<p>\nDe\u015fi are experien\u0163\u0103 de zeci de ani \u00een domeniu, de\u015fi a realizat crea\u0163ii pentru unele dintre cele mai cunoscute m\u0103rci din lume, pia\u0163a local\u0103 a r\u0103mas la statutul de croitor sau cizmar, mai degrab\u0103 dec\u00e2t s\u0103 fac\u0103 pasul mai departe c\u0103tre dezvoltare \u015fi s\u0103 \u00ee\u015fi contureze branduri proprii. Astfel, ast\u0103zi, \u00een Rom\u00e2nia exist\u0103 c\u00e2teva sute \u2013 sau poate mii &#8211; de m\u0103rci de haine, \u00eenc\u0103l\u0163\u0103minte sau accesorii, iar \u00een marea lor majoritate acestea sunt interna\u0163ionale. Numele rom\u00e2ne\u015fti sunt, de cele mai multe ori, mici, la \u00eenceput de drum sau ancorate \u00een portul Rom\u00e2nia. Niciunul nu a reu\u015fit \u00eenc\u0103 s\u0103 devin\u0103 o for\u0163\u0103 global\u0103. De ce?<\/p>\n<p>\n\u201eRom\u00e2nii sunt importatori \u015fi cunosc\u0103tori de lux, dar foarte pu\u0163ine firme rom\u00e2ne\u015fti produc \u015fi export\u0103 lux sub brand propriu\u201c, spunea recent Amalia S\u0103ftoiu, fondatoarea Ami Amalia, un business care realizeaz\u0103 haine tricotate \u00een propriul atelier din Oradea. Circa 40% din v\u00e2nz\u0103rile brandului de lux Ami Amalia provin de la clien\u0163ii de pe pia\u0163a local\u0103, iar restul de la cei din str\u0103in\u0103tate. \u201eMajoritatea clien\u0163ilor no\u015ftri sunt din str\u0103in\u0103tate, iar pro\u00addusele noastre poart\u0103 cu m\u00e2ndrie eticheta \u00abmade in Romania\u00bb.\u201c<\/p>\n<p>\nRom\u00e2nia a fost \u015fi continu\u0103 s\u0103 fie o \u0163ar\u0103 cunoscut\u0103 drept croitorul Europei, o \u0163ar\u0103 cu o m\u0103iestrie aparte \u00een a croi \u015fi coase haine pe a c\u0103ror etichet\u0103 stau numele unora dintre cele mai puternice m\u0103rci de mod\u0103 din lume. Tot Rom\u00e2nia este o \u0163ar\u0103 importa\u00adtoare de bunuri finite de haine sau pantofi, consumatorii lo\u00adcali apre\u00adciind artizanatul cu care vine la pachet o pies\u0103 lucrat\u0103 cu aten\u0163ie \u015fi migal\u0103. \u015ei totu\u015fi, pu\u0163ine sunt compa\u00adniile autohtone care pro\u00adduc \u015fi care \u00ee\u015fi pun propriul brand pe crea\u0163iile care apoi fac \u00eenconjurul lumii. De regul\u0103, antreprenorii care fac pro\u00adduc\u0163ie de mod\u0103 \u2013 fie c\u0103 e vorba de \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103minte, fie de \u00eenc\u0103l\u0163\u0103minte \u2013 spun c\u0103 e un cu totul alt lucru s\u0103 faci brand propriu \u015fi retail. Este o afacere separat\u0103, ce necesit\u0103 timp, bani \u015fi oameni specializa\u0163i. Mai mult, dac\u0103 alegi s\u0103 investe\u015fti \u00een asta, renun\u0163i \u2013 cel pu\u0163in par\u0163ial \u2013 la contractele cu clien\u0163ii str\u0103ini. Mai exact, e un pariu riscant.<\/p>\n<p>\n\u015ei asta mai ales \u00een condi\u0163iile \u00een care moda este un domeniu puternic concuren\u0163ial, cu multe m\u0103rci interna\u0163ionale cu renume, ce au \u00een spate grupuri gigant cu o for\u0163\u0103 financiar\u0103 pe m\u0103sur\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>\n\u201e\u00cen prezent, 80% din produc\u0163ie merge c\u0103tre pia\u0163a extern\u0103 (branduri partenere \u2013 n. red.), iar 20% c\u0103tre brandul propriu. Ponderea s-a schimbat din cauza lipsei for\u0163ei de munc\u0103, \u00eencepusem cu 30% cot\u0103 pentru pia\u0163a local\u0103 \u015fi voiam treptat s\u0103 cre\u015ftem. A trebuit s\u0103 ne ax\u0103m mai mult pe pia\u0163a extern\u0103 ca s\u0103 putem supravietui\u201c, spune Alina Rachieru, fondatoarea Pineberry, un brand local de c\u0103m\u0103\u015fi. Antreprenoarea a creat aceast\u0103 marc\u0103 \u00een 2010, c\u00e2nd a intrat \u00een familia so\u0163ului s\u0103u care de\u0163ine de trei decenii o fabric\u0103 de haine.<\/p>\n<p>\n\u201eAm decis s\u0103 \u00eencerc\u0103m \u015fi pia\u0163a local\u0103, av\u00e2nd \u00een vedere c\u0103 eu veneam dintr-un mediu corporate, unde se cereau c\u0103m\u0103\u015fi office, iar \u00een 2010 oferta era foarte limitat\u0103.\u201c Totu\u015fi, recent, produc\u0103torul rom\u00e2n a \u00eenchis singurul magazin fizic pe care \u00eel avea \u00een Bucure\u015fti, \u00een Mall Vitan, magazin inaugurat \u00een 2019. Decizia de a renun\u0163a la magazinul fizic vine ca urmare a lipsei de for\u0163\u0103 de munc\u0103 din propria fabric\u0103. Acum produsele sub brand propriu se v\u00e2nd doar pe site.<\/p>\n<p>\n\u00cen sectorul de \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103minte num\u0103rul brandurilor rom\u00e2ne\u015fti puternice e foarte mic. \u00cen cel de \u00eenc\u0103l\u0163\u0103minte \u00eens\u0103, exist\u0103 un pol de juc\u0103tori locali care au \u015fi produc\u0163ie \u015fi retail. E vorba de Musette, Anna Cori sau Marelbo. Prin ce se remarc\u0103 toate aceste companii e prin faptul c\u0103 ele nu produc dec\u00e2t pentru sine, a\u015fa c\u0103 \u015fi-au concentrat toat\u0103 aten\u0163ia \u00een direc\u0163ia dezvolt\u0103rii unui brand propriu. Ele au zeci de magazine \u015fi o pozi\u0163ie puternic\u0103 \u00een pia\u0163\u0103 local\u0103, dar niciun actor nu a reu\u015fit s\u0103 se impun\u0103 dincolo de grani\u0163\u0103, de\u015fi unele \u00eencerc\u0103ri timide au existat, mai ales \u00een cazul Musette. Astfel, ast\u0103zi, Rom\u00e2nia nu are niciun nume cu adev\u0103rat mare \u015fi interna\u0163ional \u00een mod\u0103. Dar e timpul trecut?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Rom\u00e2nia este unul dintre cei mai importan\u0163i produc\u0103tori de \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103\u00adminte din Europa, fabricile locale realiz\u00e2nd haine pentru nume mari din moda de lux \u015fi cea mass market.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[510],"tags":[7386,54225,54224,1826,8199,4127,4338,7387,6481],"class_list":["post-213639","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-actualitate","tag-branduri","tag-branduri-proprii","tag-cizmarul-europei","tag-croitorul-europei","tag-haine","tag-lux","tag-made-in-romania","tag-marci","tag-moda"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/213639","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=213639"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/213639\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=213639"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=213639"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=213639"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}