{"id":106472,"date":"2014-04-24T16:31:00","date_gmt":"2014-04-24T16:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/?p=106472"},"modified":"2014-04-24T16:31:00","modified_gmt":"2014-04-24T16:31:00","slug":"reportaj-targul-de-dulciuri-de-la-paris-cum-ar-trebui-sa-fie-deserturile-din-restaurante","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/?p=106472","title":{"rendered":"Reportaj: T\u00e2rgul de dulciuri de la Paris – cum ar trebui s\u0103 fie deserturile din restaurante"},"content":{"rendered":"

\nADRIANA SOHODOLEANU
\n(C\u0102L\u0102TOR PASIONAT, GASTRONOM \u00ceN TRAINING \u015eI ANTREPRENOR, PROPRIETAR AL BOUTIQUE-ULUI ONLINE DE DESERTURI \u015eI CADOURI WWW.BISCUIT.RO)<\/p>\n

\n

\nPRIMELE PAGINI DIN BIG BROTHER, DE LIONEL SHRIVER, VORBESC DESPRE M\u00c2NCARE \u015eI SATISFAC\u0162IA PE CARE ACEASTA O OFER\u0102. Teoria care m-a f\u0103cut s\u0103 aprob \u015fi s\u0103 scriu aceste r\u00e2nduri spune c\u0103 m\u00e2ncarea \u00een sine nu aduce (mult\u0103) pl\u0103cere. Romanul analizeaz\u0103 obezitatea \u00een rela\u0163ie cu responsabilitatea familial\u0103 \u015fi gradul \u00een care aceasta din urma este sau nu util\u0103 \u015fi dezirabil\u0103.<\/p>\n

\nCitind cele c\u00e2teva r\u00e2nduri prin care personajul \u00ee\u015fi face introducerea construind e\u015fafodajul povestirii sale (despre obezitate \u015fi rela\u0163ii de familie) am reg\u0103sit verbalizat un g\u00e2nd avut destul de des \u00een ultima vreme. Ceea ce ne face s\u0103 saliv\u0103m se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 de fapt \u00een afara momentului mastic\u0103rii, \u00eenainte \u015fi dup\u0103, respectiv anticiparea, a\u0163\u00e2\u0163area papilelor \u015fi apoi amintirea experien\u0163ei. Rememorarea ei amplific\u0103 impactul.<\/p>\n

\nESTE MOTIVUL CARE M-A ADUS LA ACEST T\u00c2RG: vreau s\u0103 aflu noi tehnici \u015fi echipamente prin care experien\u0163a pe care o ofer clien\u0163ilor prin deserturile noastre s\u0103 fie intens\u0103 \u015fi generatoare de amintiri, anticip\u0103ri, savur\u0103ri \u015fi iar amintiri – un fel de \u015farpe care-\u015fi \u00eenghite coada, o mi\u015fcare ciclic\u0103 nesf\u00e2r\u015fit\u0103, pe care, da, unii ar numi-o dependen\u0163\u0103. Eu i-a\u015f spune loializare.<\/p>\n

\nCele \u015fapte hale ale parcului expozi\u0163ional din Villepinte sunt dedicate unor categorii precum brut\u0103rie, artizanal, industrial, \u015fcoli de gastronomie, concursuri \u015fi show-uri. Aici au loc \u00eentreceri precum Mondial des arts sucres \u015fi Masters de la boulangerie artisanal la care particip\u0103 concuren\u0163i din toat\u0103 lumea. Tot aici \u00ee\u015fi prezint\u0103 expozan\u0163ii performan\u0163ele produselor lor \u2013 ma\u015fini, utilaje, f\u0103inuri sau arome, forme de copt etc. \u2013 \u015fi o fac tot la fel prin vitrine \u00een care au \u00eenregimentat mii de pr\u0103jituri pastelate. Privirea \u00ee\u0163i alearg\u0103 c\u0103tre ele, se \u00eembat\u0103 cu arom\u0103, se \u00eempletice\u015fte \u00een decoruri, se lipe\u015fte, \u00eenghite hulpav\u0103 tot, cu discrimin\u0103ri minore.<\/p>\n

\nPre\u0163 de o or\u0103 e\u015fti \u00een extaz, dar apoi urmeaz\u0103 c\u0103derea: privirea, tot ea s\u0103raca, se t\u00e2r\u00e2ie, \u015fchioap\u0103t\u0103, \u00ee\u015fi trage pleoapa pav\u0103z\u0103 \u015fi implor\u0103 mil\u0103. Intervine grea\u0163a vizual\u0103. Stomacul nu are nimic, nu a gustat nimic. Aici desertul se m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 cu ochii, aproape nimic nu se degust\u0103 fizic. O binecuv\u00e2ntare. Aceast\u0103 supradoz\u0103 de zah\u0103r a f\u0103cut ca \u00een cele patru zile \u00een Paris s\u0103 m\u0103n\u00e2nc efectiv doar trei deserturi \u015fi pe acelea din curiozitate profesional\u0103, nu poft\u0103.<\/p>\n

\n\u00cen afara t\u00e2rgului, este lini\u015fte. Parisul este de data aceasta t\u0103cut, pare c\u0103 oamenii \u015fi ma\u015finile merg \u00een v\u00e2rful degetelor. Ma\u015fini nu prea sunt \u015fi c\u00e2nd apar nu fac zgomot. Nu sunt silen\u0163ioase, fantomatic-inexistente, ci doar pu\u0163ine \u015fi nu fac zgomot mare, lucru care are de-a face cu nivelul polu\u0103rii \u00een ora\u015f \u015fi \u00eencerc\u0103rile guvernului de a-l diminua.<\/p>\n

\nS\u00e2mb\u0103t\u0103 seara Parisul a fost cuminte, duminic\u0103 pustiu, iar luni adormit. Doar pe Champs \u00c9lys\u00e9es e o agita\u0163ie t\u0103cut\u0103, turi\u015fti mi\u015fc\u00e2ndu-se ca o turm\u0103 spre sau dinspre Arcul de Triumf.<\/p>\n

\n\"\"<\/p>\n

\nZgomotul este \u00eens\u0103 \u00een bistrouri \u015fi magazine. Perdele fonice invizibile \u00eel re\u0163in acolo \u015fi doar r\u0103zle\u0163 r\u0103zbate c\u00e2te un murmur. E ciudat, c\u0103ci nu plute\u015fte nimic \u00een aer, nu e o respira\u0163ie re\u0163inut\u0103, nici t\u0103cere impus\u0103. Nu te a\u015ftep\u0163i s\u0103 izbucneasc\u0103 o furtun\u0103 sau o ga\u015fc\u0103 de prieteni s\u0103 urle \u201eSurpriz\u0103!\u201e. Cei care trec pe strad\u0103 sunt pu\u0163ini \u015fi normali. C\u00e2ini nu sunt, iar cer\u015fetorii tac \u00eenveli\u0163i \u00een saci de dormit, \u00een u\u015file de la Printemps \u015fi Lafayette.<\/p>\n

\nZiua nu e altfel; \u00een gr\u0103dinile Tuileries \u015fi pe peticele de iarb\u0103 paralele cu Champs \u00c9lys\u00e9es oamenii stau desc\u0103l\u0163a\u0163i \u00een iarb\u0103. Stau \u015fi eu \u015fi m\u0103 g\u00e2ndesc c\u00e2t de diferit ne purt\u0103m \u00een vacan\u0163e fa\u0163\u0103 de ceea ce suntem acas\u0103.
\nM\u0103 mai g\u00e2ndesc la cele de la t\u00e2rg \u015fi la faptul c\u0103 \u00een diminea\u0163a aceasta la Fauchon (magazin de lux de delicatese) erau 40 de oameni la ora 11; to\u0163i aveau co\u015furi \u00een m\u00e2n\u0103 \u015fi c\u0103utau probabil s\u0103 refac\u0103 stocul de provizii terminate peste weekend.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nBistrourile sunt pline la pr\u00e2nz \u015fi cin\u0103, magazinele de m\u00e2ncare la fel, boulangeriile au coad\u0103 la intrare. Treptele de la Madeleine gem de genunchi pe care se ia pr\u00e2nzul la caserol\u0103. Neam gourmet \u015fi gourmand. \u00cen parc miroase a m\u00e2ncare, pe str\u0103zi a ceap\u0103 pr\u0103jit\u0103. De\u015fi arat\u0103 aristocrat, Parisul miroase burghez.<\/p>\n

\nLa una din u\u015file galeriilor Lafayette \u00een fa\u0163\u0103 st\u0103 aceea\u015fi femeie cu pisica, ca \u015fi anul trecut. O b\u0103nuiesc rom\u00e2nc\u0103, are fa\u0163a unei \u0163\u0103r\u0103nci de treab\u0103, care \u00een loc s\u0103 v\u00e2nd\u0103 ro\u015fii bibile\u015fte un pisoi t\u0103rcat, cu fa\u0163a bl\u00e2nd\u0103 \u015fi rotund\u0103. O \u00eentreb dac\u0103 e cumva din Rom\u00e2nia \u00een timp ce caut \u00een portofel o moned\u0103. Da, este, \u015fi are impresia c\u0103 m\u0103 cunoa\u015fte c\u0103ci m\u0103 \u00eentreab\u0103: \u201eE\u015fti din Bucure\u015fti, nu?\u201e.<\/p>\n

\nFotografiez pisoiul \u015fi remarc noua h\u0103inu\u0163\u0103 \u00een care e \u00eembr\u0103cat. Parc\u0103 anul trecut avea o h\u0103inu\u0163\u0103 tricotat\u0103 de m\u00e2n\u0103, acum are un f\u00e2\u015f negru curat. Ordine \u015fi cur\u0103\u0163enie e \u015fi pe buc\u0103\u0163ica lui de pre\u015f unde \u00ee\u015fi are m\u00e2ncarea \u015fi apa. Ismail e numele motanului \u015fi nu pot s\u0103 nu m\u0103 \u00eentreb dac\u0103 nu o fi anchilozat st\u00e2nd cuminte pe postamentul lui; pisicile ar trebui s\u0103 mi\u015fune unduitor. Dar poate e b\u0103tr\u00e2n, lene\u015f sau \u00een\u0163elept.<\/p>\n

\n\"\"<\/p>\n

\nM\u0103 \u00eendrept spre atelierul lui Cristophe Michalak, c\u00e2\u015ftig\u0103tor al Coupe de Monde de la Patisserie \u00een 2005. E mar\u0163i \u015fi \u00eenc\u0103 lini\u015fte peste tot. Sunt \u00eentr-un cartier reziden\u0163ial, iar strada \u00een\u015fir\u0103 bistrou l\u00e2ng\u0103 bistrou, c\u00e2te o c\u0103lc\u0103torie ici-colo. Boulangeria de cartier e doldora cu pr\u0103jituri la fel ca orice alt\u0103 cofet\u0103rie din centru: tarte citron, eclere, flan, tarte \u015fi tartelette cu ciocolat\u0103, zmeur\u0103, mere, pere \u015fi vi\u015fine. To\u0163i suspec\u0163ii obi\u015fnui\u0163i din c\u0103r\u0163ile de patiserie francez\u0103 sunt \u00een vitrine: tarte tatin, religieuse, St. Honore, tarte normande, eclair, le fraisier etc.<\/p>\n

\nLa Michalak e \u00eenc\u0103 \u00eenchis; deschide de mar\u0163i p\u00e2n\u0103 duminic\u0103 \u015fi doar de la ora 12:00, a\u015fa c\u0103 m\u0103 plimb prin brut\u0103riile cartierului \u015fi sf\u00e2r\u015fesc \u00eentr-un parc cu copii albi \u015fi bone negre, unde scriu aceste r\u00e2nduri. M\u0103 uit la ceas, dar minutele trec greu. E ultima zi la Paris \u015fi trebuie s\u0103 iau masa la Gaya Rive Gauche a lui Pierre Gagnaire, l\u0103sat special la urm\u0103, a\u015fa cum \u00ee\u015fi p\u0103streaz\u0103 tata cea mai apetisant\u0103 buc\u0103\u0163ic\u0103 din farfurie pentru ultima \u00eenghi\u0163itur\u0103.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

O carte cump\u0103rat\u0103 \u00een aeroport \u015fi devorat\u0103 pe cursa care m-a dus la un t\u00e2rg dedicat brut\u0103riei \u015fi patiseriei, \u0163inut la Paris, mi-a schimbat u\u015for perspectiva asupra capitalei franceze.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[510],"tags":[8548,33979,5607,7193,470,4636,32751,195,7909,11597,16559,4999,23948,19589,80,391,7798],"class_list":["post-106472","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-actualitate","tag-aeroport","tag-amintiri","tag-capitala","tag-carte","tag-cumparare","tag-cursa","tag-dedicatie","tag-experienta","tag-franta","tag-mancare","tag-obezitate","tag-paris","tag-perspectiva","tag-prajituri","tag-refuz","tag-schimbare","tag-targ"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/106472","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=106472"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/106472\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=106472"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=106472"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bm.dev.synology.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=106472"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}